“The whole cool-climate viticulture thing is lacking on the American wine scene,” said Morten Hallgren, the winemaker and owner of Ravines Wine Cellars with his wife, Lisa. “It shows a bright future for the Finger Lakes.”
— Eric Asimov, “Deep Lakes, Icy Climate, Great Wine,” The New York Times, 2011
When Morten Hallgren made that statement in 2011, the Finger Lakes AVA was still in its promising adolescence—100 wineries, 11,000 acres under vine, and a burgeoning reputation. Today, nearly 150 wineries call the region home, and its cool-climate identity has become a point of pride and distinction. But in 2000, when Morten and Lisa Hallgren founded Ravines Wine Cellars, cool-climate American wine was far from a foregone conclusion on wine lists and retail shelves. Twenty-five years later, Ravines is one of the most respected producers in the Finger Lakes and beyond. On June 1, Ravines Wine Cellars will host their 25th Anniversary with a Retrospective Tasting and celebrate this legacy and a bright future.
From Provence to Keuka Lake
The Ravines story begins in Provence, where Morten grew up working in the vineyards at his family’s estate, Domaine de Castel Roubine. After studying physics and earning an advanced degree in enology and viticulture in Montpellier, Morten worked harvests in Bordeaux, Texas, and North Carolina before settling in the Finger Lakes in 1998. As head winemaker at Dr. Konstantin Frank Cellars, he became intimately familiar with the region’s terroirs and acutely aware of its unrealized potential.
In 2000, the Hallgrens purchased a 17-acre parcel on Keuka Lake, nestled between two steep ravines. From a rented barn, they produced Ravines’ first vintage: classical, bone-dry Riesling; vibrant Pinot Noir; structured Meritage; and Chardonnay—all fermented in a style inspired by the great cool-climate wines of Europe. Their 2002 Dry Riesling took top honors at the World Riesling Cup, marking a turning point not just for Ravines, but for the region’s stylistic evolution.
A New Voice for Finger Lakes Riesling
At a time when “Dry Riesling” in the region often meant something decidedly off-dry, Morten and Lisa committed to a different approach: terroir-driven, mineral-laced, transparently made wines that would express the land, not mask it. Their commitment to classical winemaking resonated beyond upstate tasting rooms. Ravines wines quickly gained traction with sommeliers and wine writers in New York City, earning accolades from Wine Spectator, The New York Times, Wine & Spirits, Bon Appétit, and Decanter.
Lisa, with a background in the culinary arts, played a critical role in introducing Ravines to a broader audience. Her belief in the power of food and wine helped establish the winery’s identity as a producer of exceptional wines and a destination for elevated hospitality in the region.
The Hallgrens’ Vineyard Vision
Over the years, Ravines has expanded thoughtfully, acquiring and cultivating some of the most compelling vineyard sites in the region. Today, the estate encompasses 130 acres of certified sustainable vineyards and maintains long-term relationships with the Argetsinger family and other key growers. From the shale and clay of 16 Falls to the limestone-laced slopes of Limestone Springs Vineyard, and the iconic Argetsinger Vineyard’s mineral-rich soils above Seneca Lake, these sites form the foundation of Ravines’ style: vivid, linear, age-worthy wines that articulate both site and season.
The winery was also among the first in the region to pilot Cornell’s sustainability certification program. Herbicide-free farming, erosion control through cover crops, and the use of organic inputs are now standard practices at Ravines.
A Retrospective, A Benchmark
To celebrate its 25th anniversary in 2025, Ravines is hosting an unprecedented retrospective tasting featuring 114 wines that span two decades of production. This includes every vintage produced of Dry Riesling (21 vintages), Chardonnay (21 vintages), Cabernet Franc (19 vintages), and Meritage/Maximilien (20 vintages) since the winery’s founding. For Morten, this isn’t just an anniversary celebration; it’s a moment to assess how far the region has come.
“Throughout history,” he says, “the finest wines were always considered those from the cool climate regions… wines that improve over a long period of time, show vintage variation, serve as ‘benchmarks’ for their fellow varietals, and offer vibrancy and food-friendliness. Until recently, few if any wine regions outside of Europe have shown the potential to consistently produce wines that match those attributes consistently. The idea is not only to show you what we can do in the more favorable vintages but to allow you to discover how warm vintages differ from cool vintages.”
It’s rare to see a 20-year vertical of wines from a single estate anywhere in the New World. It’s even rarer on the East Coast. But Ravines has always operated with a long view, eschewing the trend for timelessness and speed for structure. There will undoubtedly be some notable favorites among the library wines.
Looking Ahead
What began as a quiet revolution in a rented barn is now a cornerstone of Finger Lakes winemaking. With two tasting rooms in Geneva and Keuka, a devoted “Ravinous” wine club, and wines poured in top restaurants nationwide, Ravines has helped rewrite the narrative for American wine by broadening the style and elevating New York wine along with Hermann J. Wiemer, Standing Stone, and Onabay.
And yet, after 25 vintages, the mission remains humble: to make wines of elegance, balance, and precision. To listen to what the land is saying. And, as Morten puts it, to be part of its poem.
Tickets to the public June 1st 25th Anniversary Retrospective Tasting are available at Ravineswines.com.
