Brunello di Montalcino 'Ugolaia'

Score

94

"The Lisini 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia is a special wine that has been off my radar for a number of years. I'm happy to see it again. Ugolaia represents a special selection of fruit, and the results portray a thick and intense expression with more extraction compared to the other wines I tasted from this estate this year. Dark plum, dried fruit, tobacco, potting soil and dark licorice rise slowly from the glass. The tannins are softly integrated within the thick fruit fiber of the mouthfeel."

Score

94

"The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia from Lisini is drop-dead gorgeous, showing the purity of Sangiovese fruit above all else. The most vivid display of crushed, fresh-picked strawberries lifts from the glass, complicated by notes of green stems and the rich black soil tones you may associate them with. Peppery herbs, leather and brown spice can be found with further coaxing. It’s silky in texture, enveloping the palate in a more savory, even salty expression, as wild berry fruits coast across a core of vibrant acidity with minty freshness. The finish is long and youthfully tannic yet fresh, with inner violet florals and a hint of licorice which slowly tapers off. It’s important to note that this was tasted over the course of an entire day, and it seemed to get better each time I revisited it."

Score

97

"Ugolaia is a 1.7ha southwest-facing plot that looks out toward the sea, where temperature swings between day and night are significant. Here, the estate's oldest vines grow on red irony soil. This wine is not produced every vintage, but it clearly made sense in 2013 when neither Lisini's Riserva nor the regular Brunello suffered, and the Ugolaia demonstrated why it's a special site. It's still very backward but all is in place in this deftly sculpted Brunello. Nuances of wild cherry, lavender, moist soil and balsamic herbs emerge little by little. The tannins are assertive but fully ripe and sophisticated, demonstrating the wine's breed. This is concentrated yet vibrant, with appetising saline and iron notes resonating on the long finish."