Xinomavro 'Ramnista'

Score

91

"The 2017 Ramnista, all Xinomavro, was aged for 16 months in 30% new 5,000-liter French casks (but for a 5% dollop of American wood). It comes in at 14.6% alcohol (actual, I'm told). Solid in the mid-palate, this shows off fine fruit with a subtle layer of wood as an overlay. This has some power on the finish too, but the mid-palate concentration easily soaks it up, making this rather approachable (not every young Ramnista is). It should still age well, developing more complexity along the way, but this seems to be drinking nicely right now. Still, it was better the next day, when it showed more of that Xinomavro acidity and complexity. We'll see if it can turn into anything more in time, but if not, it's still pretty darned good at a nice price."

Score

92

"The 2016 Ramnista, all Xinomavro, was aged for 16 months in 30% new French oak. It comes in at 13.7% alcohol. After tasting a run of rustic Xinomavros that seemed to have endless power and no mid-palates for this issue, this Ramnista changed the channel. This is hardly a bottling that is known for being shy in terms of power, but it has the balance and the mid-palate depth to soak up the power this year. It seems surprisingly fruit forward, although very dry. Granted that both are not here together, this seems fuller in the mid-palate and more fruit-driven than the 2015, for better or for worse. The 2015 might have more energy. Earthy and complex, while still showing good structure, this looks like a fine Ramnista. It might also be a relatively approachable Ramnista. It will still age well."

Score

94

"Yiannis Boutari treats his estate as an experimental vineyard, planting multiple clones of xinomavro in a vast array of configurations. This bottling comes off of plots on lighter soils, the fruit chosen for its aromatic complexity. The wine shows xinomavro in all its fragrant detail, notes of cedar, pepper, roses and smoked meat sweeping through its dark cherry fruit on brisk acidity. With fine, grippy tannins, the wine feels smooth but not over-polished—it still needs a roast leg of lamb to show its best, or another five to ten years in the cellar."