Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten 'Urglück' Riesling Auslese

In its sighing way this is as profound a wine as has ever been made here. Without the anvil-solidity of years like 2010 or 2015, nothing obtrudes upon the purity of fruit – and acidity can be distracting, you know. Here it’s not merely “slate and apples” any more. Something para has entered the picture; fruit but also not-fruit; refers to mineral but not “minerally.” Just some arcane synergy, some voice of the vineyard we’ll never quite account for.

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