Niersteiner Oelberg 'Im Taubennest' Riesling Trocken

This is the cadaster name for Oelberg’s best parcel (which some claim is the best parcel in the entire Roter Hang) and it’s Sebastian’s “GG.” The wine is always strong (as opposed to “powerful”) and only reveals itself after 4-5 years in bottle. Whereas ’18 is usually unkind to ‘17s tasted by its side, this ’17 still shows the juicy mineral-saturated essence it showed a year ago, along with the salty nubby meringue with nibs of crunch and texture.

The 2018 is now all Sponti – the ’17 was half-half – and I thought it was the best young showing of any vintage I’d tasted. Lush and authoritative, elegantly earthy and tasting like a slice of peach wrapped in Prosciutto di Parma; the overall structure is chewy, dry but dark-chocolatey (that’s partly from sponti and partly from the site), and while I don’t seek to leapfrog over the fine ’17, credit where it’s due to this wonderful ’18.

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