Monemvasia-Malvasia [Sweet]

Score

97

"Here,s both a new story and an old one. Monemvasia in the Peloponnese was the original source of what the medieval world knew as ÁMalvasias Oenos, † the sweet Malvasia straw wine beloved and traded over 500 years by the merchants of La Serenissima, the seafaring Venetian Republic. In recent times, almost all of it has been produced on the Cycladic island of Paros † but not this wine, whose source is vineyards close to the original walled town of Monemvasia. The Monemvasia grape variety (not a member, recent DNA analysis suggests, of the large Malvasia family) is here blended with 15 per cent of Assyrtico, 15 per cent of Kydonitsa and 10 per cent of Asprouda to make this oxidative though unfortified sweet wine (187 g/l sugar). It,s a dark walnut in colour, with softly smoky-sweet scents and rich fig-and-raisin flavours: a luxurious modern taste of a medieval Mediterranean treat."

Score

94

"The Monemvasia Winery 2012 Monemvasia-Malvasia Vin Liastos (in a 375-milliliter bottle) was reviewed previously, but because it is the flagship sweet wine of the region and because my score has increased since that earlier tasting, I am revisiting it here. The dark amber-colored wine is produced under the PDO Monemvasia-Malvasia and is composed of 60% Monemvasia, 20% Kydonitsa, 10% Assyrtiko and 10% Asproudi. The grapes are traditionally sun-dried ("vin liastos" translates as "sun-dried wine") for approximately 12 to 20 days, depending on the vintage, before fermentation, and the wine spends a minimum of two years aging in oak barrels. The 2012 is the third vintage of this historic wine, following the inaugural 2010 release. What stands out most today is the wine's sense of balance. Despite its richness and concentration, it remains surprisingly crisp and clean on the finish, with freshness carried in part by Assyrtiko and Kydonitsa, which are harvested earlier and contribute acidity to the blend. There is a faint touch of volatile acidity that recalls the oxidative traditions associated with historic Mediterranean sweet wines, but it remains well integrated and adds interesting lift. The bouquet reveals layers of dried fruit, caramel, nuts and candied citrus, while the palate shows impressive energy and persistence. More than a decade after harvest, the wine remains youthful and vibrant, underscoring the extraordinary aging potential of the revived Monemvasia-Malvasia style. Production totaled 18,000 bottles in 2012, compared to approximately 10,000 bottles for both the inaugural 2010 release and the following 2011 vintage (held back for longer aging)."

Score

92

"The brown-colored 2012 Monemvasia-Malvasia is an intriguing blend of 60% Monemvasia, 20% Kidonitsa, 10% Assyrtiko and 10% Asproudes grapes that were sun-dried for roughly 20 days, with a subsequent two-year maturation in French oak barriques. Raisin, molasses, toffee and dates are all expressed prominently. Flawlessly balanced by lively acids, the 2012 is a delicious Greek sweet wine that will provide ample pleasure for decades to come. Hints of caramel and grilled almonds emerge on the elongated finale."