Champagne Brut ‘Le Brut’, A. Margaine

Tasting Notes

I wish I were named “Cuvée le Brut” instead of my actual name, Gibbery Wobblestein (“Terry Theise” is a pseudonym). In the early days of this portfolio—jeez, 20 years ago—this was among my most beloved NVs, and then there seemed to be a kind of trough, and now it’s gorgeous once more. It’s gorgeous, and there is nothing remotely like it. Another lovely edition of Margaine, that will improve with more time on the cork. Still pale, with an almost ghostly, eerie clarity, a high-register shimmer, diaphanous and spectral, and the finish is like tiny white sparks are shooting from your tongue. The customary flavors of jasmine and talc are certainly present, but it’s the haunting ethereal pealing that you’ll remember. —Terry Theise

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