Champagne ‘Expression’ Brut, Rene Geoffroy
Cépage 28% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Noir, 41% Meunier
Assemblage 66% 2013 and 34% 2012
Source Cumières 1er Cru and Hautvillers, average age of the vines is 20 years
Elevage Enameled tank and French oak foudre for the reserve wine
Sur latte 36 months
Vallee de la Marne
We are “between cuvées” here, as is often the case throughout the winery; Geoffroy is successful and wines move quickly.
This one combines 66% 2013 and 34% 2012 and will be disgorged 6/2017. I tasted a sample disgorged à la volée without dosage, which tasted racy and taut, a good thing at this stage. It’s 41% PM, 31% PN and 28% CH.
In general this is what one might call a “party wine,” if the people at your party were all Mensa members. It’s extroverted and flavorsome yet also detailed and silky. Meunier shows as soy and shiitakes. The Chardonnay component is increasing over the years. The wine is classic Cumières, ripe and smoky—it’s some of the steepest and warmest land in all of Champagne—yet it’s also high-energy because Jean-Baptiste almost never does malo.
Request a shelf talker/case card
Press & Reviews
Juicy green pear, quince, grapefruit zest and dried apricot fruit flavors mix with an aromatic streak of minerality and lightly chalky acidity in this well-meshed, lively Champagne. Drink now through 2017. –AN
(43% pinot meunier, 32% pinot noir and 25% chardonnay; 65% of the fruit was from 2010 and the rest from 2009 and 2008; disgorged in July, 2013 after 30 months on its lees): Pale onion skin color. Aromas of fresh pear, lemongrass and lime zest, with a hint of jasmine. Juicy and penetrating, with tangy citrus and orchard fruit and flavors underscored by a note of chalky minerality. Finishes clean and racy, with lingering floral and gingery spice qualities.
This version of Geoffroy's non-vintage brut is notable for its lower percentage of meunier (32), as well as its increased percentage of reserve wine (30), which, as usual, is made up of last year's blend of Expression. To me, this cuvée has become more overtly refined over the years—this edition still feels extroverted and gregarious in the Geoffroy style, but there's a marked finesse about the bold, red-fruit flavors that wasn't always present before, and a wonderful balance between the ripeness of fruit and the citrusy, mandarin orange-like acidity. It's earthy and broad on the palate but never rustic, and it's already showing terrifically well even though it's only just been released. While Geoffroy has recently been using only MCR (concentrated and rectified must) for his dosage, this wine was dosed with a traditional liqueur: "I tried MCR," he says, "but for whatever reason it didn't seem to integrate very well with the wine this year, so I went back to liqueur." Could this be a factor contributing to the unusual harmony of this wine? Last tasted: 3/10