Champagne Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru 'Les Crayeres' VV Extra Brut

Score

98

"Year after year, Egly,s NV Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Les CrayŠres remains one of the most compelling and reliable wines from the Montagne de Reims. Sourced from a south-facing lieu-dit in Ambonnay that was planted between 1946 and 1947 on shallow chalk soils with just 30 centimeters of topsoil, it was disgorged in October 2024 with a dosage of one gram per liter. This release blends the richer 2017 vintage with the taut, incisive character of 2016. Notably, prior to 2000, Francis Egly produced this cuv,e as a single-vintage expression, only later opting for a two-vintage blend to buffer against the variability of any given season. The wine ascends from the glass with a bouquet of remarkable complexity‡aromas of acacia, ripe pear, orange zest, toasted nuts and patisserie elements unfurl. Full-bodied, concentrated and layered, with ample chalky structuring extract and mouthwatering acidity, it concludes with a long, saline finish. While I often vacillate between Les CrayŠres and the Mill,sime as to which I favor, this year, Les CrayŠres stands as the most captivating wine in the cellar. It offers immense youthful appeal yet promises to evolve beautifully with age. Readers would be wise not to hesitate‡it fully lives up to its reputation, and I,d gladly secure bottles for my own cellar."

Score

96

"Initially reticent upon release, this cuvée's explosive, char-fuelled energy of fruits of the forest, dried apple and subtle roasted spices is delivered with a beautifully measured intensity, saturated with flavour before its drying, stony close. Highly expressive, yet still under considerable tension; for all its outgoing aromatics, there's a beguiling inner finesse here. Made from 100% Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, based on 2014 with reserves from 2013. Fermented in barrel, disgorged in September 2021."

Score

96

"Deep and complex, showing candied fruit, quince and lanolin with chalky minerality, strawberries and a bit of horseradish, slightly honeyed. Medium-bodied. Fine bubbles are tight, intense and long. Savory and tasty, pure and energetic. Drink or hold."