Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Selbach-Oster
ZELTINGER SONNENUHR: is the Premier Grand Cru. Slate, lime, apple, butter-vanilla, rich, almost chewy earthiness, great depth. Some parcels are prized by locals as the best sites in the entire Bernkastel-Zeltingen ramp-DOKTOR notwithstanding! These wines are fullbodied. Selbachs are now the primo owners in this great site, and have inaugurated an era of elective harvesting and a quality potential such as we have never before seen.
Soil type: big chunks of Devonian slate on solid bedrock of ancient slate
Selbach’s are the only dry Mosel Rieslings I don’t need to accommodate myself to, to make allowances, to swallow a thing that won’t go down easily. These dry wines taste like they OUGHT to be dry, and I don’t know how he does it, but I want to take bottles to other growers and say “Can’t yours be like this?” (Except they’d usher me quickly out into the street.) He picked it early (3rd or 4th of October) and the fruit was entirely free of botrytis, as you’ll note with the first sniff. This smells good! Even classic. The wine is pretty and yet also has every facet of this Grand Cru (which in turn has every facet of great Mosel), and this lissome yet solid wine is a superb achievement. — Terry Theise
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