DE-SOS-13-16

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Trocken *** 'GG'

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Trocken *** 'GG'

This is the top dry wine produced at the estate and would be considered their “GG”.  Zeltinger Sonnenuhr is the top Grand Cru and the Selbachs are the primary owners of this site. This is the steepest of the three vineyards, and there are large outcroppings of rock with chunks of blue Devonian slate with a very shallow subsoil of decomposed slate. This is also the driest of the vineyards, and generally speaking, these wines are full-bodied, and a bit flashier.

Producer:
Vintage:
2016
Country:
Germany
Region:
Mosel
Appellation:
Mosel
Variety:
Riesling
Color:
White
Farming Practice:
Sustainable

Press & Reviews

Vinous Media

Score:
90
Date:
2020-01-23
Review:
This “three-star” Spätlese trocken was only bottled after the 2017 harvest, and although it deals adequately with its 13% alcohol, it is slightly awkwardly influenced by a five-year-old cask that contributed half of its volume. The nose was surprisingly restrained on opening, registering more oak and lees than fruit, but I was able to return to the bottle half a day later and discovered hauntingly site-typical heliotrope and honeysuckle. Pecan-like bittersweetness and piquancy of apple seed feature prominently – along with primary appley juiciness – on an expansive, glycerol-rich palate that misses the combination of creaminess and animation characteristic of Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling at its most charming. Stony underpinnings and wood influence nudge the seriously sustained finish in a slightly austere direction, and the honeysuckle turns bittersweet, as if one were chomping on both blossom and stem. Perhaps this will benefit from further time in bottle, but I would monitor matters closely, as I am not convinced that it will exhibit quite the ageworthiness I usually experience with dry Selbach-Oster Rieslings. (There will be a comparably late-bottled, late-released 2017.)