Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Feinherb 'Uralte Reben'
At times when I needed to convey the essential Selbach-Oster, I used this wine. This and its partner in Graach are every bit as important as the three en-blocs. They go as deeply into Mosel-legacy as those wines, and they’re also more “drinky.” Basically, we have two very old plots—the Sonnenuhr has vines well over 100 years—ungrafted of course, and made (which is to say not made) as they would have been when the vines were planted. Spontis, fermented without pre- cleaning, no temperature control, in Fuder, and resting on the lees for a long time before bottling. They can be “funky” out of the gate, but hugely less funky than most of the “natural” wines you make elegant excuses for.
This is more oblong and spherical, creamier than its counterpart in Graach. It refers sideways to Chenin. The ’18 is the firmest, meatiest and crustiest of all the Feinherbs, but with its customary quince and smoke.
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