Bründlmayer Ried Zöbinger Heiligenstein 'Alte Reben' 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC Riesling
“A special cuvée from only lyre-trained vines, showing in Willi’s words that “You don’t need old vines to give great Riesling.”
He adds, “The greater leaf surface gives increased photosynthesis, protects the grapes, and besides, it looks like the vine is
throwing its arms up toward the sun.”
Comparing Lyra with Alte Reben is an abidingly fascinating exercise. In hot years Lyra often prevails, when A.R. gets too ripe.
In most years it’s lovely to look at what I call “above ground flavors” (in Lyra) versus “below ground flavors” (in A.R.), but this
doesn’t always mean the Lyra is fruity. Often it is quite herbal- this is, after all, Heiligenstein.
Indeed Lyra has gotten deeper as the vines age, and the distinction between the two siblings is sometimes ambiguous or
wooly—at least until you taste the Alte Reben!
I’m offering three vintages and you ought to buy them all, especially if you’re a somm, because the relative extroversion of Lyra
will better prevail over the distractions of resto dining. (Alte Reben is for meditation, or just sitting there weeping.) ” Terry Theise
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