Riesling Trocken ‘Melaphyr’, Schneider
There are two definitions for Melaphyre (the English spelling): “a porphyritic rock consisting of phenocrysts of feldspar in a dark groundmass; broadly: a porphyritic igneous rock with dark-colored aphanitic groundmass and phenocrysts of various kinds.” Or, a Mesozoic basalt. I myself have been called a “Mesozoic basalt,” though never to my face. It’s one of the several volcanic soils the central Nahe contains, and it usually gives wines scented and flavored of soursop, lemon-balm, violets and ginger. This year there’s more sponti (for “spontangärung,” or wild-yeast fermentation. The Germans like making words up like “sponti”) and also more lees contact. The wine is predictably tangy and spicy and while it was clamped down from having just been bottled, it has length plus that conjurer’s bewitching volcanic soil vibe.
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