Riesling ‘Tradition’, Gobelsburg
The ‘Tradition’ wines are related to the early 19th century – especially to the period between around 1800 and 1850. This period is marked on one side by the period of baroque, where intense aromatization in vinfication was practice. With the upcoming Romantic aromatisation yielded the idea of pure nature and the ‘pure’ taste. Additionally, winemakers were looking back to an empirical knowledge of nearly 2000 years of wine making. On the other hand this period is marked in the middle of the century by the upcoming industrialization which has been leading to more and more technology in the cellar and started to change the craftsmanship side of winemaking. This development leads step by step to the point, when we start to talk about modern wine making, which focuses on the question of aromas and fruit components.
200 years ago the cellar masters of Gobelsburg had a completely different idea on wine. Wine was seen in these days much more as an individual. They compared wine with the human being and believed that as we humans have to undergo certain development, also a wine has to do so. And as we have to breathe, a wine also has to breathe in order to accomplish that development. These considerations have been leading to the common practice to rack the wine from cask to cask to let the wine breath in order to encourage the next step of his development. This was repeated several times and was called the ‘teaching’ of the wine (ger: die Schulung). Here the relation between wine and cellar master can be seen in the same way as the relation between a teacher and his pupil. The task of the cellar master was to identify the potential of the wine and according to that, ‘teach’ him up to his potential. This can be seen in contradiction to our today’s modern imagination that great wine is made in the vineyard and not in the cellar. In our todays mind we belief that the big art of making a great wine is to do ‘nothing’.
The grapes are pressed with a basket press for low sediment content, without further sedimentation the wines are fermented without temperature control in 25 hl Manhartsberg oak casks (double foudre). After the fermentation the wines are racked every 3 to 4 months to let the wine ‘breathe’ on one side, but on the other side to go off the lees. This process lasts for about two years until the wine is ready to be bottled.
The grapes were pressed softly with only a few twists (as with a treepress), filled without degumming into a large Manhartsberg oak cask
(25 hectoliters), and then spontaneously fermented without cooling. Following fermentation, the wine was racked three times until it was almost completely pure.The wine was bottled after maturing in the cask for 18 months
Grape variety: Riesling
Age of vines: 20-40 years
Maturation: Austrian (Manhartsberg) Oak Cask 25 hl
Alcohol: 13.0 %