Niederhauser Hermannshohle ‘Edith Elizabeth’ Riesling Spatlese, Schneider

Perhaps the herald of a new era here. A smoky and serious aroma, on the green side and even with some brassica nuances; the overall impact is fennel-frond, slate, mineral, a limpid explicated clarity that’s somehow also serene, and yet has a jittery energy, showing a gingery sort of neon-white brilliance. Of course this note is a mess, but the wine isn’t logical, it’s full of paradox, and the interplay of elements, while spazzy, is still somehow coherent.