MarMar Riesling, von Winning
A sheltered site that is surrounded by sandstone walls with a former coral reef (limestone) beneath. Kalkofen sits on a plateau above Deidesheim and is a Grosses Gewächs site.
This as always is convincing, even domineering, and certainly generous and alpha, the “Les Clos” of the GGs. The Deidesheim
site is a “chalk-oven” and gives the most overt and in-your-face among the Crus—the easiest to “get” and the most clearly
impressive. Yet it is also complex and ages superbly. Perhaps the best “restaurant-wine” as it’s all over you and not at all subtle. – Terry Theise
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