Goldatzel Johannisberger Goldatzel Riesling Kabinett Feinherb

Score

91

"Pear wreathed in honeysuckle coveys a deceptive aura of sweetness on the nose – because the wine tastes virtually dry – but the fruit succulence and inner-mouth florality that ensue are flatteringly-complemented by the wine’s seductively creamy texture. And as with some of the other best Goldatzel 2017s, creaminess is entirely compatible with animating juiciness, here supplied by a squeeze of fresh lemon that, in tandem with tang of pear skin, piquancy of pear and lemon pips, as well as marine salinity serves for a surprisingly and delightfully invigorating as well as mouthwatering finish. And at 11.5% alcohol, the overall impression is buoyant, even if marginally less-so than in this wine’s vintage 2016 predecessor."