Gruner Veltliner ‘Zwickl’, Nikolaihof
This is, in essence, an unfiltered “Hefeabzug,” and you get two wines in the same bottle if you want. How? It’s fallen bright in the top one-third, and if you pour carefully you will have a clear wine. You can then shake the rest of the bottle to mix the sediment and pour yourselves a cloudy glass of tasty atavism. They encourage this!
The wine-on-top is oyster and delicate and birchy. The cloudy one is “darker,” more boxwood and cress. It’s fun! The 2015 is doughier and richer and here the cloudy wine makes more sense.