Gruner Veltliner ‘Tradition’, Gobelsburg
The Renner GV, from which this wine is made, was the best GV I tasted from 2014, so I approached this wine with great hope.
The aromas are fascinating and almost inscrutable. There’s the sweet mealiness from the vinification, but there seems also to
be some botrytis—or its echo—that’s more pronounced than it was in the “normal” Renner last year. Especially on the palate.
And yet the finish (always the truest truth of a wine) is intricate and searching and surprisingly peppery, verbena-like. The wine
isn’t yet resolved, but the discussion among its aspects is itself compelling. – Terry Theise
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