Gruner Veltliner Stein, Ott
The Engabrunner Stein Erste Lage, rests on the border of Wagram and Kamptal, technically belonging to the Kamptal region. This wine is grown on soils of gneiss, chalk and loess, as well as red and yellow sands. The grapes are grown on old vines, the oldest of which were planted in 1957. The wine receives a 30 hour maceration on the skins which contributes to its intensity of mineralic expression. The Stein is now RESPEKT – biodynamic certified.
The site is in Engabrunn, just over the border in the Kamptal, and it sits on (mostly) the so-called Gföhler gneiss, and will remind you more of Kamptal GVs than of Ott’s expected style. Which compels me to wonder….how much of what I infer and (perhaps glibly) conclude about Bernhard’s style has to do with his particular soils? Because this wine really wouldn’t be out of place at, say, Bründlmayer.
It shows the purest gnarl of mineral and animality, funky iris aromas; rock-dust and rusks; the classic example of massive flavor virtually without “fruit” as-such; it’s like a rock garden of vinosity, and curiously it’s also like dark-meat turkey. – Terry Theise
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