Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Lamm 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC Grüner Veltliner
“Lamm as a rule is buckwheat-y, rusky, savory but not thick, like a vegetable-veal stock with barley, yet oddly also like lamb itself. (“Lamm” doesn’t mean lamb, but is rather a dialect word for “loam.”) It is a great wine though virtually without fruit per se. Its poise of gloss and power, intensity and outline, mass and transparency are emblems of the paradox without which no wine is truly great.
If Renner commences the birds to sing, Lamm commences the wolves to howl. Yet this ’17 appears to be a stunning and almost gentle version of the powerhouse. Vetiver, secret sweetness, and the dark-dough ruskiness is still incipient. As always it’s rich yet sleek, focused but strong.” Terry Theise
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