Gruner Veltliner, Setzer
This wine has everything, except salability. It isn’t the cheapest and it isn’t the biggest; it’s just delicious, useful and charming.
Right, I know: poo on that. We don’t “drink” wine, and if we do we certainly don’t waste any mental bandwidth on how delightful
or delicious it might be. That is for nimrods. We appraise our wines; it’s a kind of blood sport, we judge and evaluate and we
especially pay terribly close attention to how the wine makes us look; will our industry pals respect us? Does our wine have a
big enough dick?
Is it enough for a wine to be unique and wonderful? Doubtful. Is the sweet-natured moderation of a wine like this something we
might respond to? Nah, it isn’t noisy enough. Do the aromas and flavors of boxwood, basmati and chervil have any chance of
breaking through? You must be joking.
Are we at risk of perverting the very reasons we ever got into wine at all? Yes, we are. – Terry Theise
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