Gramina, Vassaltis Vineyards
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Press & Reviews
Wine & Spirits
“What would happen if the grapes didn’t sit in the vineyard after being harvested?” That was the question that inspired this wine. Winemaker Ilias Roussakis and his team picked this assyrtiko at two small plots of 60-year-old vines in Vourvoulos on an early August morning, then, immediately after the bins were filled, drove the fruit to the winery to begin pressing—all whole clusters, long and slow. Leaving the must cloudy, they let it spontaneously ferment. The first vintage, 2017, included 20 percent aged in barrel; this 2018 was fermented entirely in stainless steel, preserving the freshness and vivacity of the fruit. Herbal, stony and breezy, it’s shot through with a bright, lemony acidity that illuminates the wine like sun off Santorini’s whitewashed buildings: It’s stunning, massive without aggression in its alcohol or acidity, rich without being weighty. And it holds that fine, elegant line for days after opening. Masterful.