Champagne Brut Rose, Varnier-Fanniere
cépage 92% Chardonnay 8% red wine of Grand Cru Pinot Noir
from Ambonnay (Champagne Dethune)
assemblage 50% 2014, 50% 2013
info/source 1/3 Avize Grand Cru, 1/3 Cramant Grand Cru,
1/3 Oger Grand Cru, with a small part from Oiry Grand Cru.
Red wine from Ambonnay Grand Cru is from the 2012 vintage.
élevage Stainless steel
sur latte 36 months
Cote de Blancs
It’s the same wine as last year—half/half 2011/2012—disg. 11/2016, and it remains an exquisitely beautiful wine. Precise and pretty, bush-berries, a truly haunting finish; the wine has all the fruit in the world yet isn’t “fruity.” The PN, as always, comes from Dethune in Ambonnay.
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Press & Reviews
The NV Brut Rose Grand Cru shows fabulous intensity and drive from start to finish. This is a decidedly elegant, focused Rose with an emphasis on minerality. Ideally it needs to be served at the dinner table. Total harmony and classiness are the hallmarks of this beautifully sculpted Rose. I very much like the intensity here. The Rose is 90% Chardonnay, equal parts Cramant, Avize and Oger, and 10% still Pinot from Ay, a fabulous collection of Grand Crus by any measure. The vintages are 40% 2008, 40% 2007 and 20% 2006. This bottle was disgorged May 14, 2011. Dosage is 10 grams. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015.
Fresh and lightly floral, this aperitif-style Champagne offers a lively bead and open-knit flavors of black raspberry, dried cherry, toasted almond, red licorice and smoke. Mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2015. -A.N.
(92% chardonnay and 8% pinot noir, mostly from 2010 and 30% from 2009; aged for 36 months on its lees and disgorged in May, 2013): Light pink. Mineral-accented aromas and flavors of blood orange, anise and ginger. Excellent tension here. Dry, silky and penetrating, displaying very good lift and spiciness. Finishes lively and taut, with impressive clarity and length.
This is based on the brut sans année, blended with 10 percent of red wine from Aÿ. It feels airy and buoyant, distinctly lighter in tone than the brut but redolent of brisk, pungent aromas of strawberry and redcurrant. There’s a mouthfilling sense of flavor on the palate yet it’s relatively delicate in weight, with the chardonnay clearly giving this its structure and finesse. The finish is subtle and nuanced, with quiet persistence and a lovely elegance. In this style of rosé, Aÿ seems to be the perfect pinot match to Côte des Blancs chardonnay. Last tasted: 9/08
The NV Brut Rosé is soft and delicate throughout, with a lovely sense of harmony and proportion. Nothing in particular stands out, just the wine's balance and texture. A soft, layered finish rounds things out nicely. Not surprisingly for a grower based in Avize, Varnier's Rosé is predominantly Chardonnay (from Avize and Cramant), with a dollop (8%) of still Pinot from Ambonnay. This bottle was disgorged in May 2013.