Champagne Brut ‘Reserve’, Lallement
cépage 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay
assemblage 80% 2012 and 20% 2013
info/source Old vines in Verzenay Grand Cru and Verzy Grand Cru
élevage Stainless Steel
sur latte 60 months
Montagne de Reims
The blue label, disg 9/2016, 80% 2012, 20% 2013, still 80-20 PN-CH. Just drank a back vintage of this two nights ago, with
pleasure and admiration. This one’s almost chocolate-y, full of spices and star fruit; rugged and roasty but—as always—glass
clear and beyond polished.
It reverses the proportions of vintages, and also hails from superior parcels, and is a little drier—though all of these qualify as
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Press & Reviews
Lallement’s NV Brut Reserve represents, as usual, an inverse blend to that of the corresponding “basic” Brut, meaning that here we have 80% 2008 with 20% 2009. (That having been noted, there was no Reserve based on vintage 2007.) It’s hard to understate how compellingly complex and alluring as well as what an amazing value this is – and that’s when tasted from a relatively recently disgorged bottle! (I last tasted the November, 2012 disgorgement of this cuvee when it was similarly young, and with similarly dazzling effect.) Black tea and buckwheat smokiness share aromatic attention with intimations of the fresh apple and crabapple, orange and pineapple that go on to inform a lusciously juicy palate infused with black tea and suffused with crushed stone. The mouthwatering saline-sweet savor of scallops that emerges mid-palate, so typically for this address, is here apple wood-smoked. To the aforementioned sense of hidden sweetness (not at all on account of residual sugar, as there are but four grams) is joined, in a profoundly protracted finish, by almond-like nuttiness; maritime alkalinity and salinity; and kisses of candied orange rind and caramelized onion. If this wine doesn’t set your salivary glands pumping, you might want to consult your doctor.
Hints of honey, vanilla and pastry cream enrich this creamy version, layered with flavors of glazed apricot, walnut, black currant and ground spice. Very appealing, with fine balance and finesse. –AN
(80% pinot noir and 20% chardonnay; 80% 2008 wine and the rest from 2009, all from the grand crus Verzenay and Verzy): Bright straw. Deeply perfumed scents of candied citrus and pit fruits, toasted nuts, honey and chamomile. Spicy and nicely concentrated, offering intense poached pear and orange zest flavors and a hint of marzipan. Tighter on the impressively persistent finish, which emphasizes smoky minerals and bitter pear skin.
The discreet nose is markedly perfumed with really lovely floral and
soft citrus aromas that serve as an elegant introduction to the detailed, intense and utterly delicious flavors that possess very
good if not truly exceptional complexity, all wrapped in a cool, clean and notably dry finish that manages to avoid being
aggressive or more than slightly austere. I quite like this as it’s a Champagne of refinement and understatement. It isn’t really
for those who enjoy big, bold and robust examples but for those who enjoy restrained and distinctly cool Champagne, this
would be an excellent choice.