Champagne Fins Lieux #3 Blanc de Noirs [Mailly], Pehu-Simonet
cépage 100% Pinot Noir
assemblage 100% 2011
info/source From ‘Les Poules’ vineyard in Mailly Grand Cru, certified organic.
élevage All in oak barrels
sur latte 60 months
Montagne de Reims
This is a single-parcel Mailly Grand Cru—rare enough in the Champagne world—and the first plot David farmed organically. He disgorged a bottle for us—the wine will be offered late summer—and the maiden vintage is—ulp—2011. And yet! This bottle is good. Lots of chalk and really salty; oak is a player but not the loudest guy in the glass. Mailly seems like a somewhat more herbal Verzy; this site is on the border to Verzenay. The wine has a curious florality, like osmanthus, and its overall impact is plums, herbs and stones.
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Press & Reviews
I find a little better focus in the NV Brut Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru, a wine that impresses for its energy and length. Here, too, the vintage is 2008, and there is plenty of energy to match the inherent richness of the Pinot. Sweet red berries, flowers, mint and a hint of spices are layered into the vibrant finish. Pure, crystalline and impeccable, the Blanc de Noirs is especially gorgeous this year. Dosage was 8 grams per liter. Disgorgement date: September 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018.
(100% pinot noir from Verzenay, all from 2009; disgorged in January, 2013): Light yellow. Fresh flowers, nectarine, strawberry and pear skin on the mineral- and spice-accented nose. Gently sweet, fleshy and seamless, offering ripe pear and pit fruit flavors and a touch of chamomile. Finishes with firm grip and cut and strong spicy persistence.
The NV Brut Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru is cool, implosive and surprisingly reticent for a pure 2009. Chalk, graphite, red berries and mint emerge over time, but only reluctantly. The style is big, broad and a bit burly; in other words classic Pehu. The Blanc de Noirs is a wine for the table, where its Verzenay cut will shine. This bottle was disgorged in January 2013.