Barolo 'Villero', Giacomo Fenocchio

92

2020-07-23

The Villero cru is quickly gaining in prestige and celebrity. The 2016 Barolo Villero raises the bar on this group of new releases from Giacomo Fenocchio. If some of the other Baroli are slightly muddled in aromas, this wine shows a greater degree of focus and precision. You are aware of clear aromas of black fruit, plum, spice, leather and cured tobacco. The tannins are textured but integrated into the rich fiber of this vintage.

96

2020-09-01

Woodland-berry, new leather, camphor and fragrant blue-flower aromas align in the glass. Showing youthful tension and depth, the palate is still immaturely austere but delivers juicy Marasca cherry, raspberry and licorice alongside firm, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2024–2041. 

95

2020-08-04

Rich and decadent red with strawberry, walnut, meat and tile aromas. It’s full-bodied with round, chewy tannins that are ripe and polished. Extremely opulent, but not overdone. Drink after 2023.

94

2020-06-30

The 2016 Barolo Villero is a powerful, clenched wine. Then again, that's Villero. Readers will have to be patient, that much is clear. White pepper, chalk, dried flowers, dried red cherry and mint open up over time, but the 2016 is sinewy and nervous in feel, with just enough fruit to keep things in balance. Hints of sage, tobacco, leather and menthol add the closing touches of complexity.

92

2019-01-25

Fenocchio owns a hectare of this cru in Castiglione Falletto, and his parcel is planted with vines that are 65-years-old. This is unsurprisingly very youthful, with subdued but juicy red-fruits aromas and a floral scent too. It's fleshy and rounded, but also fresh and sleek. At first it seems quite forward, but then more assertive tannins kick in. This still needs time to harmonise, and the finish, while long, shows a slight bitterness that will surely vanish with some bottle age.