Albarino, ‘Rias Baixas’, Trico
José Antonio López is as eccentric as he is brilliant. Eschewing the typical Rías Baixas modus operandi of “pick, crush, ferment, bottle, sell”, José Antonio holds his wines in tank for an unusually long time before release (hence the current vintages of ’12 and ’13). The vineyards are located in the Condado do Tea sub-region, the warmest in the D.O., and they produce wines of unusual concentration and heft that benefit from José Antonio’s patience in releasing them. The flagship wine has more in common with Wachau Grüner Veltliner than it does with the zippy, one-dimensional wines that dominate the Albariño landscape. It is racked off the lees after fermentation and kept in tank for an additional eighteen months and twelve months in bottle before release.